Thirty hours, four airline meals and one Ambien later...
we arrived in Amman, Jordan !!
Although not the original travel plan ( Mutual of Omaha opted to cancel a trip to Istanbul, Turkey due to security risks related to Bin Laden's death) - we were not to be deterred...traveled to Amman, Jordan direct from USA instead via Turkey to visit Leslie-still posted with USAID there. Ten wonderful days spent exploring the country and spending time with Leslie and her friends.
THURSDAY: Strangely during our 2010 visit the US Embassy was having their annual wine tasting and again we arrived in time to attend the 2011 affair- elegant foods, wines, music, dancing-an evening just made for us! Jet lag did not deter a good time, although the wine did seem seem to have an unusually "quick" kick; thirty hours of travel door to door with minimal sleep could have added to this circumstance as well.
FRIDAY: Revived by morning we were up and ready to go...first to brunch at a very nice cafe then to a summer market that was celebrating it's opening day. The market is only open on Fridays and was originally a project initiated by USAID with the purpose to encourage Jordanian merchants and artisans to sell their wares and foodstuffs. The best options were several young women with interesting jewelry items and an artist that painted on glass and then made into trays, mugs, dishes, etc. An innovative group of young men -who were searching for a restaurant name- were making flateers-extremely thin pastry layered with vegetable and meat options, folded and baked at extremely high heat for just a few minutes-delicious! Could easily be the "Next Great American Restaurant".
Leslie was officially assigned her first USAID project in April after completing required training over the last year. The initiative is to encourage gender acceptance and family planning in the country. To this end John Hopkins is working in the country via a grant to achieve this purpose-this is one of Leslie's managerial assignments. As it happened in Irbid, Jordan (about one hour north of Amman) the project was sponsoring a festival- "My Life Is Beautiful" -which we attended. The Embassy driver picked us up late afternoon and we arrived in time for the entertainment. Over 2, 000 people attended - a great success. Highlights of the event included a popular comedy team - Ra'el & Khadra, Ma'an - traditional folk dancers, break dancers from Amman and the star of the evening Hussain Al Salman-nationally known pop singer who was originally from this region. An aside, the Muslim clerics had just approved a declaration accepting the tenants of Leslie's project which is a huge step in the right direction for public health in Jordan.
SATURDAY : Just one of the best days ! We along with a group of Leslie's friends travelled north (again) to the St. George vineyards-the passion of "The Winemaker" Omar Zumot. Omar funded his venture with business acumen - wholesaling Lays and Hershey products to the whole of Jordan. In spitting distance of Syria, Omar grows his grapes (34 varieties) on 1250 acres with two smaller vineyards south of Amman. His wines are totally organic and it was very interesting to hear of the process as we toured the guest house and grounds. The afternoon was spent tasting wines along with a lovely barbecue-just grand. The photo gallery (noted at end of blog) tells the story. Our cast of characters (many who repeat with other festivities during our stay) include charming, witty, interesting friends that Leslie has met on this post.
Amy (Canada) working in Amman with an educational foundation
Karin (Sweden) an engineer with SWECO managing water projects
Catherine (French Canadian) works in Canadian Embassy
Nina (USA) works as a technician with Syntax
Catherine (USA) working with ENDEAVOR in entrepreneurship
Ayman (Jordan) former Iraq contractor
Kai (Norway) works with the United Nations
Mo (USA) studying Arabic in Jordan
Guests of Catherine were Isabelle, Patrick & Baby Patrick from Abu Dhabi
You would think Duncan and I would know better but with age does not necessarily come wisdom ! Continued the party at Karin's late into the night with more wine, food, singing and dancing. Did I mention the hookah? Smoking a water pipe filled with fruit flavored tobaccos is quite a social event in Jordan-you can even order delivery as well as many bars devoted to this social event. Quite pleasant flavors ie watermelon/mint, lemon/mint, double apple and the list goes on. Pleasantly surprised to find country songs were a favorite of the group ! You don't have to be from the country to enjoy country !
SUNDAY: First day of the work week so Duncan and I were on our own for the day. Our driver, Husan , ferried us to museums, shopping malls, the grocery store and then a special late afternoon visit with Omar at his wine shop. What a treat to hear first hand his history, the vision for his wine making and the excitement of actually being able to succeed with vineyards in such a dry, hot climate. The key is the disparity in day and evening temperatures allowing the grapes to develop their sugars; from his original tests of 34 varieties he has yet to find a grape that does not perform. Amazing!
MONDAY: Off early for the drive to Petra, south of Amman. In the 1950's this site was unearthed-one of the earliest known farming communities in the Middle East. Only 5% has been excavated but is a spectacular city honed from rose rock. Although we had visited with Leslie in 2010, our mission this trip was to go further up into the mountains to see the Monastery- a Nabataean tomb built to King Obodas around 96 B.C. and views that overlooked the entire region. Since there were 800 steep steps to achieve our goal, we opted to take a carriage ride into the base -imagine riding over cobblestones in a horse drawn carriage- bumpy does not describe the thirty minute ride. Once there we then chose a donkey to scale us up the 800 steps-perilous is the adjective since many areas were quite narrow. Once on top, I suggested we actually walk down-no more donkey for me. The incredible facades on the mountains and the views were worth it all. We spent our evening in Biet Zaman, a Bedouin style hotel in Petra and rested well.
TUESDAY: Off again, this time to Wadi Rum-a series of valleys setin a desert landscape of sand and rock,punctuated bybtowering jebels. We channeled our inner "Lawrence of Arabia" (T. E. Lawrence from the 20th century)- lived here and the movie was filmed in the area as well. The Bedouin guide was quite entertaining. Duncan and I sat on benches in the back of his truck while he skirted around the rocks and sand dunes. With limited English he was able to echo to fellow Bedouins our names; he also prepared a campfire and served Bedouin tea (served hot, very sweet with sage)- delicious. We relaxed in the shade of a rock before heading back to Amman. Arriving past dinner time, we opted to go out to a wonderful Middle Eastern restaurant before once again collapsing into bed.
WEDNESDAY: A group of nine are joining us for dinner tonight at Leslie's apartment. Spent some of the day in the kitchen preparing "Southern"- fried chicken, macaroni & cheese, marinated green beans & tomatoes, hush puppies and brownies. I guess a sign of success is that there was no food left at the end of the evening! Hush puppies were quite the novelty-cooking lessons on the "art" ensure that the hush puppy will travel well all over the world. Great time again, with the addition of Andrew ( USA) to the group.
THURSDAY: We were to leave for Jerusalem today but due to security issues, Leslie did not get approved for travel to Israel. Making the best of it all, we spent the day in Umm Qais (Gadara where the scriptures say that Jesus cast out demons into the herd of pigs) north of Amman close to Irbid where we had attended the festival. Leslie decided to work and save her vacation day. So very serene and beautiful. To our left from the hill we could see Israel, to the front was the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights and then to the right we could see Syria. We had lunch at a charming rest house at the top surrounded by sun, flowers and cool breezes.
FRIDAY: An easy day with Leslie. She treated me to a mani-pedi, lunch at the market and shopping . We met Nina and Kai for dinner and had a wonderful evening with them.
SATURDAY: Brunch, shopping and a visit from Catherine (USA) before we headed out to airport- winding down a wonderful visit.
SUNDAY: Yes, another thirty hour trip-some delays out of New York to Raleigh-but we are home!!
Have 10 minutes?
The photo gallery is extensive but is a treasure from our travels.
Many photos captioned...enjoy !
Select Travel/2011/The Jordan Journey
I love sharing this with you !!
